High Performance Co2 Sport Bike Air Shifter System

This is a high pressure air shifter system for off-road use only! 

Cycle-Tek.com recommends installation to be performed by a trained

professional and accepts no liability for injury, loss or damage due to

negligence of installation or operation.  Modification to any component

voids any and all warranty. 

Getting Started:

-Prop tank up               

-Remove tail section 

-Remove left lower fairing

-Remove air box 

If your bike has a lowering strap on it loosen it completely for easier access to the horn and horn wiring above the front fender. 

Mounting Co2 Shift Kit Components:

Co2 Bottle& Valve-Regulator Assembly

The On/Off Valve & regulator assembly is preset to around 145psi and leak tested, you shouldn’t have to adjust the regulator.  The Co2 bottle’s O-ring and threads are pre-greased, but always make sure there is no foreign material on the threads or O-ring before screwing on the valve assembly.  When screwing the valve assembly onto a full Co2 bottle never try to hold the regulator as leverage, you risk loosening/tightening the elbow fitting between the regulator and the valve.  Grasp the valve body by hand and screw onto the Co2 bottle, when it gets to the O-ring you’ll feel a little tension, at this point try to quickly screw it on the rest of the way to prevent Co2 from escaping through the small valve release port.  It’s always a good idea to wrap the valve body with a shop rag (to prevent scratching) and use an adjustable wrench to snug the assembly up.  DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN with wrench and NEVER use Teflon tape or thread sealant on the Co2 bottle threads!   Find a place to mount the Co2 bottle.  When using a stock undertail (Busa Specific) the standard location is in the trunk on the right side as you’re sitting on the bike.  In this location the bottle will slide all the way back with the valve-regulator assembly facing forward.  Remember, the bottle needs to be accessed to turn the air on/off and removed to be refilled occasionally.  A full 9oz Co2 bottle will deliver approximately 150-200 shifts, so make removing the bottle as easy as you feel necessary.

Ignition kill-box

Find a location to mount Blue Ignition Kill Box.  Remember, once the kill time is set there is no need to even see the kill box.  Kill time is adjusted via ¾ turn potentiometer accessed thru the small hole in the cover.  To increase kill time (make longer) turn potentiometer clockwise, to decrease kill time (make faster) turn potentiometer counter-clockwise.  The potentiometer will stop in both directions.

DO NOT FORCE POTENTIOMETER PAST STOPS, YOU WILL DAMAGE THE DEVICE!!

Electric air solenoid

The solenoid has two Instant Tube fittings installed.  Depending on the way you are mounting your shift cylinder, the solenoid will have one 45deg and one 90deg fitting, or two 90deg fittings.  I have found a great place to mount the solenoid that allows easy in and easy out air tube routing, and very close to the shift cylinder, which is vital for fast solid shifts.  (99-07 models only) With the left lower fairing removed, notice about 2/3rds up on the coolant reservoir is a solid flat section.  CAREFULLY drill a 5/32 hole thru the middle of this flat solid section.  If the hole is not exactly centered you run the risk of puncturing the reservoir.  You will use the 2½” stainless steel pan head screw and nut to mount the electric air solenoid.  Notice the words “IN” on one side and “OUT” on the other side of the solenoid.  The solenoid will be mounted with the black section up and the “IN” 90deg fitting toward the front of the bike, also facing up.  Hold the solenoid behind the reservoir with one hand in the orientation mentioned.  Insert the screw thru the hole in the reservoir and the upper most hole in the solenoid.  Install the #8 Ny-lok nut and gently snug, it’s ok if the solenoid moves or slightly rotates a little, once the tubing is in place it will naturally position the solenoid, and the Ny-lok nut will prevent it from falling off.

For 2008 and newer Busa’s the electric air solenoid can be tie wrapped to the OEM harness in the same general location.

Shift cylinder

If you are running a reverse shift pattern on your motorcycle you WILL need to remove the 90deg Instant tube fitting and install it on the opposite end of the cylinder!

If mounting to the hollow engine mounting bolt exposed on the outside of the frame, use supplied drill bit to enlarge hole to correct size.  Use supplied tap to thread the hole, make sure lubricant is used on the tap before threading.  Making sure the tap is perfectly straight, drive the tap all the way in until no threads are exposed, backing out ¼ turn for every ½ turn in.  Take your time threading the hole; a broken 5/16” tap is the last thing you want to try to remove!  Insert stainless steel bolt thru mounting hole in stationary end of shift cylinder, making sure the 90deg tube fitting is toward the outside.  Screw the female threaded hex spacer onto the bolt, unthreaded hollow end toward the cylinder.  Apply a few drops of removable thread lock to the end of the bolt and screw it into the tapped engine mounting hole.  Align the cylinder & clevis perfectly with the shifter.  Once the clevis easily slides over the shifter, only fine adjustment should be necessary to assure the cylinder is exactly perpendicular to shifter.  Hold the bolt with an allen wrench and tighten the spacer against the engine mounting bolt, secure this well!  There should be play between the spacer and the cylinder; this is needed for free movement during shifting.  Locate the clevis mounting hole as close to the end of the shifter as possible, making sure there is no interference between the clevis and toe piece during up and down shifts.  Center, mark and drill a ¼” hole for the clevis mounting pin to pass thru.  Insert the clevis mounting pin from the outside and secure with supplied cotter-pin.

Wiring harness

The wiring harness is made to fit perfectly if installed as instructed!

I prefer to start from the front and work our way back.  Working with the end of the harness that has the 3-position plug and two male and female quick connectors, feed this end thru the small opening in front of cylinder #4.  Disconnect the black factory plug on the horn and connect the two female push-on connectors onto the male tabs coming off the horn, there is no polarity.  Next insert the male quick connectors into the factory horn plug.  The blue wire from the harness mates with the black wire on the factory horn plug, red and yellow together mate to the yellow wire on the factory horn plug.

Route the harness in front of the coils and along the inside of the left frame rail, following the factory harness back to the ECM.  The 4 beige  wires exiting the split-sleeve will be connected to the colored wires on the coils (NOT THE GREY WIRES).  Any of the beige wires may connect to any coil, so you may trim these wires appropriately (Splicing and soldering is the ideal way to make these connections, but if you are not comfortable with this procedure use the blue Scotchlock connecters included with the system).  Carefully connect a beige wire to a colored coil wire with the provided blue Scotch-lock connector; about 2” back from the coil itself.  Before clamping down the Scotch-lock be sure both wires enter and exit the connector straight to avoid damaging the center conductor while clamping.  Repeat this process for all the beige harness wires and colored coil wires.  As you dress the harness back toward the center section of the frame you’ll notice a small 2-position plug.  Plug this end into the mating receptacle on the previously mounted electric air solenoid.  Continue dressing the harness under the gas tank, along the left side of the sub-frame.  There is a black ground wire that is left long so you can route this to the negative terminal of the battery, do so at this time.  Route the remaining harness to the ignition kill-box and make final connection.  If you wish to shorten the harness you may do so by unscrewing each terminal on the plug, cut the wire to length, re-strip the wire and insert back into the proper terminal. 

-TAKE NOTE TO WHAT WIRE GOES INTO WHAT TERMINAL BEFORE REMOVING THEM- Mark the wires or remove them and shorten one at a time.

Toggle Switch Assy

You have about 2’ of harness to play with, so find a location for the toggle switch that’s convenient for you while making sure the 3-position receptacle will reach to the mating plug near the horn.  The right side lower dash panel is the most common spot for mounting the toggle switch.  CAREFULLY drill a ¼” hole in the location desired, remove all hardware on the toggle switch and feed switch up thru bottom of hole, securing with lock washer and nut on the top side.  Cleanly route the wires and receptacle to the horn location and connect to mating 3-position plug.

High Pressure Tubing

The tube I supply with my kits has the highest heat rating available without getting into Teflon, which is very expensive.  The trade off, this tube is relatively stiff with a minimum bend radius of about 2-2 ½”.  It’s happened to me numerous times, I’ll loose a full bottle of Co2 due to the tube from the regulator to the input side of the solenoid bursting from engine heat.  Not to mention it’ll make you jump out of your skin, it could mean the difference in winning or losing a race! 

Tek-Note: Prior to installing the high pressure tubing set it in the sun to soften and relax.  If need be, use a hair dryer or heat gun on lowest temperature setting while routing the tube on the bike.  You want to only warm the tube!  DO NOT OVER HEAT THE TUBE IN ONE SPOT!

When routing from the regulator, I found it easiest to run the tube back into the tail section before dressing forward.  This allows you to gently bend and maneuver the tube more naturally and prevents kinks or creases.  Follow the wiring harness on the left side of the bike; use extra cable ties if needed to gently attach the tube to the sub-frame or harness.  Make sure the tube does not rub on any sharp objects as this will eventually weaken the tube in this spot and could burst sometime in the future. 

Route tube to electric air solenoid “IN” fitting, carefully cut with new razor blade or small side cutters and firmly insert into Instant push-in fitting on solenoid.

Tek-Note: If using small side cutters, tubing may retain an oblong or oval shape on the end you cut.  Be sure to very gently re-shape the end of the tube back into round or you risk a possible slow air leak at this seal.

Insert another piece of tube into the “OUT” fitting on the solenoid and route to the shift cylinder.  Be sure to firmly wiggle and push the tube into all fittings for a good seat.

300psi Output Pressure Gauge

The supplied 300psi pressure gauge will allow you to keep an eye on output pressure.  All systems are preset and pressure tested before shipped, you shouldn’t have to adjust the regulator, but keep an eye on the output pressure.  The 300psi pressure gauge can be T’d inline anyplace between the output of the regulator and the input of the solenoid.  Be sure to isolate the gauge from any moving parts and keep it from rattling against anything, heavy vibration can damage the gauge or render it inoperable.

STOP!!!        

DOUBLE CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS AND TUBE FITTINGS BEFORE TESTING OPERATION.